I loved this article in this week’s Times, written by Amanda Cohen, chef and owner of New York City’s vegetable palace, Dirt Candy. And it reminded me of another chef recipe that I worked on years ago, that I loved. Granted, it’s not a sauce, and it’s not particularly red, either. But when you taste the depth of flavor that comes from roasting the tomatoes, you’ll understand why I made the connection.
I found it funny at the time, that this had “Late Summer” in its title—roasting tomatoes is something, like Cohen, that I think of doing in the winter, not the summer. Summer tomatoes really need nothing done to them to make them taste good. But roasting winter tomatoes—even ones that you’ve pronounced dead, even ones that have gone cottony in the fridge—will bring out a savory tomatoeyness that could rival the flavor of an August vine-ripened heirloom.
And once you taste the soup, you’ll get the name, too. Those garlicky, parsleyed squid rings and the bright green favas (again, don’t panic that it’s winter; you can use frozen), combined with the leeks and roasted tomatoes, taste quite a bit like summer in a bowl.